Anthology

by David Axelson

Anthology, which is a combination fine dining establishment and music club, bills Chef Todd Allison as “A culinary rock star performing nightly.” After attending the Downtown San Diego venue Friday night, I would say that’s a very accurate marketing tag line.

Allison, 32, a Coronado High School graduate (CHS ’96) worked his way up through the ranks, starting as a dishwasher and working for Chef Ken Irvine at Café 1134 and Chez Loma. After three years with Irvine, Allison had achieved ‘lead cook’ status and was offered a position with Chef James Boyce, formerly executive chef at Loews Coronado Bay Resort.

“Chef Boyce had just left Loews to go to Mary Elaine’s at the Phoenician Resort in

Scottsdale,” Allison recalled. Ken suggested that I should go work with him.” That’s how culinary careers are born. Mary Elaine’s evolved into Five Star status under Boyce’s direction, earning that award from the “Mobil Travel Guide,” Five Diamonds from AAA and the Grand Award from “Wine Spectator Magazine.”

But the searing heat in Arizona began to wear on Allison. “I was going into my third summer in Scottsdale and said I’m a California kid. What am I doing here?” So the next logical move was to go to Hawaii for a brief respite.

Allison later returned to orbit of Chef Boyce, who in turn had studied under renowned French Chef Daniel Boulud. Allison worked for eight years at the Montage Resort in Laguna Beach under Boyce. “I hit a plateau,” Allison said. “I wanted a place of my own to run. I worked with Chef Boyce for a total of 11 years.” One of the perks of the association with Boyce was two appearances at the famed James Beard House in New York, which Allison said were great experiences. His description of the diminutive basement kitchen area in the Beard House and the contortions that the chefs have to go through is really humorous.

Allison also found time to graduate from the Scottsdale Culinary Le Cordon Bleu. Other stops included a position in Dana Point as sous chef at the St. Regis and later a chef de cuisine role at Bollinger’s in Laguna Beach. Another culinary and career influence is noted Chef Michael Mina.

During our interview, we compared food and dining stories and Allison is a true fan of the culinary arts and tradition. He noted that his favorite meal to date was experienced at Joel Robuchon’s restaurant in Las Vegas. We compared notes about Robuchon’s famed mashed potatoes, which are not to be missed. Despite a healthy respect for tradition, Allison is also capable of entirely re-working a menu and experimenting with new concepts.

Next came a huge assignment, attempting to restore the menu and the buzz around Checkers Restaurant in the Los Angeles Hilton. In the not too distant past, Thomas Keller of The French Laundry and Per Se fame, was the executive chef of Checkers. “One of the reasons I took the job was to work where Chef Keller had been and to see if I could bring Checkers back to prominence,” Allison noted.

It was a daunting task as the executive chef position included dining at Checkers, banquets at the hotel and 24-hour room service. All of which is a great way to burn out a really good chef. “Then I was offered this opportunity at Anthology and I couldn’t pass it up,” said Allison.

The new post which opened up over the summer provides Allison with artistic challenges, but in a good way. “Owners Howard and Marsha Berkson booked a Cuban music group once and wanted some Cuban food for their appearance. I studied and came up with a couple of specials and paired them with a Cuban mojito. They sold great.”

When you consider that Allison’s specialties are French and Mediterranean food, Cuban food offerings would be a step or two out of most chefs culinary comfort zone.

My wife Sharon and I went to Anthology’s locale in Little Italy (1337 India Street) Friday, the evening that Allison decided to revamp his menu, changing six dishes for the coming fall season. Without planning to do so ahead of time, I set off on a seafood binge, starting with some very light and tasty Dungeness Crab Beignets, which were accompanied by a mango, lime aioli, which served as a perfect complement to the crab.

Next we had crispy Baja Calamari, which was lightly breaded and served with a lemon grass aioli, shiso and toasted sesame. If you miss with calamari, you miss big, but conversely well-prepared like this can be a home run. And it was.

So far we have been dabbling in the ‘Small Bites’ portion of the menu, which really weren’t. If my physician is reading this, keep in mind that my wife and I are sharing orders at this point. As we merged into the “Starters” section, we experienced steamed Mediterranean Black Mussels, with Spanish Chorizo, Shishito Peppers and grilled Crostini. The latter element was some of the best toasted bread I have ever eaten and that was essentially the throw-in ingredient in the dish. The chorizo (upscale sausage) eaten with the mussels was a taste treat.

For the “Main Course,” the Better Half and I diverged, with Sharon ordering the grilled natural Tenderloin of Beef, which was very tender and well prepared. It was served on a bed of fresh vegetables with a green peppercorn bordelaise sauce, in an example of a classically-trained French chef doing his thing with the sauces and doing it well.

In my attempt to reduce the seafood population of both of the world’s primary oceans, I opted for Maine Diver Sea Scallops served with Chanterelle Mushrooms, celeriac puree on a bed of Savoy Cabbage. Honesty compels me to report that I love scallops and these were amazing. Dessert was a chocolate torte with Macadamia nuts and a coconut caramel sauce. It was every bit as good as it sounds and more than satisfied the Axelson Dessert Rule (ADR), which simply stated is chocolate in some form must be contained in the dessert course. My wife is kind enough to go along with the ADR and it worked well on this occasion.

During the dinner, a 60-minute long-form video of Prince was being show on the large screen behind the stage, which exceeded my previous total exposure to the Purple One by 55 minutes, but it was enjoyable and a conversation was able to be carried on during the video performance.

The 7:30 p.m. show Friday night was Down to the Bone, an English jazz group which might be summarized as similar to Spyro Gyra (from the 1970’s) with a stronger, funkier backbeat. Group leader and bass player Rufus Philpot gives the six-man group plenty of room for solo performances and when they play together good things seem to happen.

I haven’t been to a live music venue in a while, but really enjoyed the presentation at Anthology. The sound system is first rate, and the aforementioned video screen supplies overhead views of the band that are interesting to follow. Shots of the keyboards during a piano solo, for example, seem to add positively to the music experience.

On another (pun alert) note, Chef Allison and Anthology are participating in a Celebrity Chefs Tour, which will appear at the venue October 17. The afternoon event will consist of a full meal and attendance is limited to 150 foodies. Other chefs on the roster include Richard Sweeny who will prepare the main course and pastry Chef Stefanie Gaxiola will supply dessert. Mixologist Garth Flood will be on hand, with Allison preparing the appetizer course. “It’s a cooking demonstration as well,” said Allison of the program which is slated to run from 2-4 p.m.

Anthology is a hybrid of fine food and good music, with the latter part varying with the act or acts performing that evening. The food is several levels above what you would expect, so come for the food and stay for the music. Coronado product Chef Todd Allison makes the stop worth your while.

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Via “Coronado Eagle & Journal